Tuesday, January 25, 2011

Appooppanthaadi -4

15.01.2011 : Certain things in this world, no one can stop them from happening. Even the Deutsche Bahn (The German Railways) or the HDFC bank can stop. It is destiny. Whatever has been already scripted by the destiny shall be enacted. And of course if it is for a noble purpose, everything is ought to fall in its place. P1150342

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After blowing hot and cold over the idea of a rendezvous in Paris, late in the night, we decided in the negative. Largely disappointed, I sat further romancing with my friend in my lap. By around 0200 hours I slipped into sleep. In the morning, exactly at 0530 hours, I got a call on my phone. It was from my friend Ananthakrishnan. He wants me there in Paris right now - as if I am staying in Olavaipe and he is at his home in the neighbouring Thuravoor!

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Still, I never wanted to let the opportunity slip away from my hands. There is a train to Paris from Frankfurt at 0640 hours.P1150537 I suddenly wriggled out of the bed, got ready and packed my bags, all within just thirty minutes. Walked down to the railway station. The ticket counters were yet not opened, but the information counters were. I asked them if I could buy ticket on train. I had only around 50 euro with me at that time and the pre loaded cash card. The information counter promised I could buy ticket using the card. The train came at 0650 on the platform. German Trains always run late. There are a number of stories about it. I shall use another occasion to write about them.

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As I boarded the second class coach and sat comfortably in a seat, the Ticket collector appeared with a smile. I flaunted my Euro card and she started the process of issuing ticket. The smile suddenly disappeared from her face. She dropped a bombshell. “I am sorry, this card cannot be accepted as this is not a credit card” the slim beauty proclaimed in good English with a grim face. My heart gave a slip to a beat at that moment. I stood frozen in the seat. The ticket cost is 108 euros and I had only 50 with me. The TTE advised me to take ticket till the second stop of the train, get down there and withdraw cash there. The next train was after three hours. This means, I will certainly miss the opportunity to go around in Paris with my friend.

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My mind was totally blank. She issued ticket for 34 euros and left. A frozen me sat like a buffoon. What next? Just thought of many ways. At last I found a way. Try my HDFFC credit card. My Indian Credit card issued by HDFC bank has been inactive for long, thanks to a goof up by the bank. Still I tried my luck. When the TTE appeared again, I offered to take ticket up to Paris using the Credit card and it worked! At 0945 I was at Gare De l’Est railway station in Paris

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After getting down at the station, I walked to the metro station, searched the location in the route map where Anathu stays and travelled by Metro to reach Anatoly France. It was one of the happiest moments in our lives. If I had missed the train, the memories of a missed opportunity to walk down the streets of Paris like we did in our Engineering college campus would have badly missed. It would have remained like an ache somewhere deep in the corner of our hearts for the rest of our lives.

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Our first destination was the museum - Musée du Louvre , the most prominent tourist destination after the Eiffel Tower in Paris. Again by the metro rail we reached the Museum. The Museum houses the most famous painting of the world-Monalisa (Monolisa for many!). P1150454We stood in front of Monalisa and took photos. This original painting by Da Vinci is kept in one of the rooms separated from all other paintings. People are not allowed to go near it. Still, the only painting in the Museum, where there is a crowd, it is in front of this small painting. There are so many big paintings all over, but they do not attract the attention of the public. This museum is very big. Going around will take a full day. The entrance fee is 10 euro per person. We walked a lot. So many paintings. So many remnants of history. Nepolean’s and Louis XIV pictures and articles from their Palaces are on display in the museum. Sadly, all the descriptions and boards in front of every piece of exhibition is only in French. No English translations could be found anywhere. French people expect whoever visits their country to know speak, read and write French.

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From there, we walked upto the Opera House. Wide roads and nicely constructed buildings were the attractions at the Opera House. We just walked around there for a few minutes and then headed for the Eiffel tower by a taxi

It was an exciting experience. We took a lot of photos in front of the Tower. P1150495After a brief photo session at the Tower and the Seine river that flows by the side of it, we headed towards the road – Rue Du Faubourg Saint Denis. From Eiffel tower, the metro station is a few meters away. We took a metro train from there.The road RUE DU Faubourg is located very close to Gare De l’Est railway station. There we went straight over to Hotel Saravanabhavan. I had a plate Idly vada sambar and another plate of paratta. Anathu had a plate of idly sambar vada and then a south Indian meal. The stomach and heart were filled and over flowing by that time. Still we went to the Chennai café and bought daal vada for two euros. For 2 euro, we got 8 vadas. We took them to our room. We saw so many other Indian and Srilankan Tamil shops on this road.

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By the time we reached back in the room, my friend Anatuhu looked the happiest man in the world-I too. A small gesture from me to travel from one country to another made a big difference here. I swear, I did only a small thing. It surely made a big difference in our friendship.

 

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Wednesday, January 19, 2011

October's Loss

20.12.2010: The train was running at 120 km per hour west of Paris. The snow covered vast expanses of land and snow covered single and double storied houses were appearing and disappearing at irregular intervals. The gentle smoke emerging out of the chimney of every house gave the perfect sight of a European winter. It was also a reflection of my mood at that Smoke from chimneytime. Sitting in the cozy comfort of a French Train, I could not enjoy the scenes however. Mind was so upset. Even standing taller than the Eiffel Tower itself in Paris in the morning did not help lift the spirit. It was stuck up at somewhere in the Port City of Visakhapatnam. To be precise, my thoughts at that time were hovering around an ordinary man and his ordinary journey in his life.

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I met him when he was at my present age. It was not for the first time I Eiffel Towermet him, but it was the first time after my memory started recoding the things. He had long connection with my family when my parents were churning out a life for us away in Visakhapatnam, as we were enjoying our childhood with our grandparents in Olavaipe. He was a part of the process and one among many rustic youths who went there from our village in search of a livelihood.

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When I met him, he was a happy man who, like any ordinary man was in search of material comforts. Brick by brick, the life has been taking shape. A house with all the bricks he could earn in his career was under construction. An own house in a city was a dream for an ordinary man like him. One had to sweat it out from every pore of his/her skin to see a dream of such a magnitude realise. To earn a job in those times was like climbing a hill. Hardships used to wait even at the top of the hill in the form of His Master’s highhandedness. Bosses behaved like tyrants who looked down upon the employees like slaves. They were forced to work for paltry sums. Building a life was virtually like swimming against the stream. Still he could swim and succeed.

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I was a young man in search of a foot hold at that time. I needed only a ernakulam Harbour Railway Stationwhite collar job then. After waiting for a few months at my Olavaipe home searching for job, I have decided to leave the place. After dilly dallying and pondering over pros and cons for long, at last the day had come. On a rainy evening, accompanied by my eldest brother, I had set out for Vizag. Babuchettan saw me off at Ernakulam Harbour Railwaystation. The train started moving. It was like a journey back on the memory track-the track that took us to and from vizag many a time when I was in my childhood. The train chugged on. From Palakkad to Coimbatore then Salem, Jolarpettai, Madras and then Vijayavada.

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Vijayawada is one of the busiest railway stations in India as most of the trains from north, east and west to and from south have to pass through Vijayawada. Then comes the famous Godavari River and the big bridge across it. The train chugs over to Rajamundri station and then over to Anakkappalli. There is a temple in Anakkapalli- Nookkalamma Temple- frequented by my mother during her stay in Vizag. At last after around 16 hours of journey, the train reached Visakhapatnam. It was like a homecoming for me

.Vijayawada is one of the busiest railway stations in India

At the railway station, there stood waiting the brisk walking tall man. With him there was a little boy too-his son- to receive me. The cute little boy made immediate friends with me. From there we rode on the scooter to their house. There started a solemn relation between a timid rustic young man and a happy family, the warmth of which is consciously preserved till now. Interestingly, his house was just closer to the place where we stayed for a long time while my father had been running a restaurant.

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Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Appooppanthaadi -3 Mysore

06.01.2011: The most beautiful thing to see in Mysore now is in the front of Jos Alukkas Jewelry Shop. No one can move ahead without stopping for a while in front of this shop and enjoy the scene. Three caparisoned elephants standing tall, nine men mounted on them (three each on each elephant) holding the famous decorated umbrellas,‘aalavattam’ and 'venchamaram’, the mahouts standing by the side of the tuskers.... A fabulous view that takes you right over to a scene at any temple festival in Keralam. The elephants move their heads and trunks according to the accompanying chorus of percussion and wind instruments. This chorus also call 'pakka vadyam' is also an essential part of a temple festival in the God’s own country. All the characters in this scene are artificially made but look so real. Alavattom and venchamaram are two beautiful objects flaunted by the persons mounted on the elephants to give richness to the scene

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Brindavam Garden

The first thing that comes to mind when we think of Mysore is the Brindavan Garden. Located around 25 kilometers from the city, this garden is one of the most beautiful gardens in the world. The fountains dotted all over the garden come alive in all their enchanting best once the sun sets. The cynosure of everyone’s eyes, only unlucky souls could miss it. The best time to visit the garden is if we are there by around 1630 hrs we can enjoy the garden in the daylight and take a few good photographs. By that time, darkness sets in. The rest will have to be seen to believe

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Mysore Palace

Then comes the Mysore Palace. This palace is located right at the centre of the city. Hardly a kilometer from the Mysore bus stand and railway station. We can simply walk from the bus station or railway station to the Palace. Palace is opened from 9 in the morning to 5 in the evening. Though I visited Mysore several times, I could never go inside the palace due to mistiming the visits. Looking from outside itself gives a great look of the Palace. The Palace is illuminated on every Sunday night . Come, watch it. No need to spend so much of money and go to Europe or Singapore or Malasiya. Our own India has countless beautiful and historic locations to visit.

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I don’t remember to have termed any place I visited exotic. This adjective suits only to one place. It is far away from the main land. It was once known as kalapani and now it is Andaman. I have a lot to tell about the islands. But now let me tell you about Mysore.

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Chamundi hills is located around 15 kilometers from the city. Another beautiful sight. Remember all these can be visited in a day itself if we engage a taxi. Just go around in the car and enjoy. Though we can complete all places in a day, it is always advisible to stay back there to go around for two more days. The Mysore market, the silk sarees and the antiques. Nothing can be missed.

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Just 18 KM away Srirangapanam is located. It was the capital of Tipu Sultan. History sleeps there. if you love to see the sleeping history, visit Sreerangapatnam next day. Around 80KM away Sravanabelagola is located. Do not miss it too.

.Chamundi hills

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Mysore can be reached from Bangalore easily by bus. In Bangalore both railway station and the bus station are close to each other. From the Bagalore Majestic bus station, there are a number of buses plying to and from Mysore. From Volvo buses to ordinary buses the buses stand in queue in the bus station. It takes just a little more than 3 hours to reach Mysore from Bangalore by the Volvo bus and the cost of the ticket is two hundred and fifty rupees. Thanks to the four lane highway, the journey is as smooth as flying on board an airplane. I am typing this sitting in a bus that takes me to Bangalore from Mysore. Those who travel from Keralam can reach here from Palakkad – Coimbatore-Satyamangalam and Mysore or from Sultanbathery.

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Majestic bus station

There are many good hotels nearby the Mysore bus stand and railway station. Hotel Pai Residency is right in front of the bus stand. Then The President – their slogan is “Presints’s Rule : Athithi devo bhava”. Like in any tourist places these hotels too are so expensive. A night’s stay at President may relieve your purse of around two thousand five hundred rupees. There are so many cheaper hotels like Dasaprakash located around one kilometer from the bus station. We can see so many white tourists staying in this hotel. I did not like the room I stayed in this hotel. Perhaps they give lowly rooms to ‘coloured’ people. Anyway, the rent is so affordable here. Hotel Siddarth charges 1800 rupees and check out time is 24 hours.

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Now, any more ponderings? Pack up your belongings. Take your desi credit card or and board the train to Bangalore. From Mysore, Ooty is very close. It is just 160 Kilometers and so many buses are running between the two places. So, when you plan for the next vacation, the iterary shall be first reaching Mysore and then over to Ootty. Who advised you to visit Europe then?

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Ooty

Friday, January 7, 2011

The Government LP School

Children are still running. But not after those elusive beautiful butterflies or the notices flying from the commander jeep that brings about the news of the arrival of the new movie at the nearby village cinema hall. They run for cover, very sadly. They are running for cover from the raining bullets, The Government LP School-1mortars and shells fired by their insane seniors. Once again I have a few drops of tears to offer to those suffering children of the conflict zones.

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On the other side of the coin, there are lucky and privileged children living in the world without knowing what poverty and destitution mean. Sipping Complan and crushing Lays between their teeth, watching televisions and spending mosst of their time in front of the personal computers, they while away their time inside the four walls of their homes. They feel, they are still inside their mothers’ wombs. For them too, I have only tears to offer. Beautiful adolescence is wasted without enjoying it.

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There was a time when even the birds in our village was jealous. No wonder if they turned green. We kids were enjoying more freedom than those winged creatures. But they used to give vent to their feelings whenever they got the opportunity. It looked as if the owls in the night did this job on behalf of all the entire avian community. Perched on the branches of the treens in the 'sarpa kaadu' - the places of worships in the premises of our house- these nocturnal adversaries used to give out their characteristic sounds almost every night – hmm…..hmmmmm

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The sound resembled 'hmm' in the short note and a consequent 'hmmmm' in the long note. We the kids never ventured out to answer the nature's call after the night fall without being accompanied by the elders. The Government LP School-3We were so frightened to hear the owls’ awkward sounds in the night. Unfortunately, none of our village houses had attached bathrooms or toilets. That was not a fashion those days. Our elders could never imagine discharging one's excreta inside the house itself! Every nature's call was answered in the open air. So, in the night we had to take help from our elders to brave the owls’ vengeance to go out and empty the bladders.

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Remembering the "sarpa kaadu", we have six such spots in our house premises- I should say, we still have. Each spots have a few big trees growing and in the 'kaadu'. Amidst the ‘kkadu’, there sits the 'naga raja' – the serpent king. Our grandparents revered the Snake gods and took care of them well. Look, Gods need our care!!! Lighting the lampsThe Government LP School-2every evening and conducting special poojas once in every year they kept the snake gods in good humour.

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My Gnadma had a special interest in keeping the sanctity of these 'kaadu'. She never allowed us to go near them without bath. Those sarpa kaadus are still existing- rather they are surviving. Care from their protagonists has considerably depleted. The sole guardian of the Snake Gods now is my mom. She tries to maintain the same old sanctity intact, though the modern mindset of the newer generations does not want to accept the concept of 'sarpa kaadus' I really have doubt about the future of these places of worship once the older generations disappeared. Even now, a few of such spots in our village were demolished in the name of constructing houses. The occupants were summarily 'transferred' to our temple or to other convenient locations.

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What ever be the belief or as some others say superstitions behind the concept of 'Sarpa Kaavu', these "tiny jungles" are definitely contributing greatly to the eco system. Let us leave the believers to their will. As long as the beliefs and faiths do not harm even a tiny ant in the universe, all faiths and beliefs need to be protected and respected

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The Government LP School-1

So, the birds had the sky as the limit. They did use the seamless sky to enjoy. Look at them. They never plant RDX in the nest of their fellow birds. They live in perfect harmony with the nature and enjoy the comforts and happiness collectively. We the kids too had almost a seamless play ground to enjoy in our village. The lush green lands, enchanting paddy fields, canals, and ponds were all our 'play grounds'. We too had sky as the limit when it came to enjoyment.

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But still Mathai saar had a cage for us. We had to remain in that cage from 10 in the morning till 4 in the evening on every week days. There was no escape from this. Grudgingly or willingly, everyone did present in the cage as mandated by Mathaisaar. Mathai saar was the Headmaster of our LP school. Government LP School was one of the two government establishments our village had at that time.

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Akhilanda mandalam aniyichorukki... was the prayer song in our school and the conclusion in the evening was made with the singing of jana gana mana. I do not remember who used to sing the prayer song,The Government LP School-4 but the national anthem was sung by one and all before we leave the school. Basheer rings the bell at four. What followed the final bell was commotion. Floodgates of excitement are opened. Kids, making shrill noises rush out of the classes. They celebrated the freedom at 4 with its full exuberance. The knickers in one hand and the (often) broken slate on the other hand, we used to rush out of the class as if crows' nests were disturbed.

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One more funny thing about some guys and gals were that they regularly sported two tusks emerging from the two holes of their noses. When they take a deep breath, these 'tusks' disappear only to reappear after a few seconds.

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Basheer was the peon of our school. He had a special respect among the kids because he was the one who set us free every day. He had another role too- serving the noon meal which we skipped everyday.

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There was a reason for our skipping the noon meal. We had a belief that this noon meal is for poor people and the 'lesser mortals' of the society. Sitting among them and eating the uppumavu (upma) was perceived to be demeaning. However, 35 years down the line, I never approve of our attitude of those time. I shall never let my kid think in this line. He will grow us as a person who respects people of every walks of life irrespective of their caste, creed or religion. I guarantee that

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Noon meal was uppumavu. There were so many children who were attracted by this and attended school. No wonder, their parents' poverty forced them to send their wards to school only with a view to ensure one full meal a day. Education and acquiring knowledge came next to them. We never waited for the uppuma. I do not remember to have even tasted it.

The Government LP School-3

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Kids never returned home straight. They used to visit every house on their way back home. They visited every mango and cashew tree and picked all those tender mangoes and nuts from the ground. Sometimes they stone the trees only to be chased by the elders of the houses. By the time kids reach home, hands and pockets would be filled with the collections. Tender mangoes are best for soaking in saline water. Chutney using soaked tender mangoes and coconuts gives a special taste. When we graduated into the UP school, the main dish in the lunch box was usually this chutney.

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Any narration of the LP school of my memory shall never be complete without mentioning Postman Krishnan Nair. At that time, we did not have a post office in our village. We were connected to our kins outside Keralam through letters and money orders. Postman Krishnana Nair was the middleman in this connection. The nearest post office was at Poochakkal. He used to walk from there and deliver the messages and cash everyday. Though the element of our sincerity in waiting anxiously for letters from outside is debatable, everyone of the family in the village certainly waited for the money orders.

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Postman KrishnanNair had to cross through our school premises to reach the southern part of Olavaipe. After delivering letters and money orders in the northern part, he walks past our school premises. Incidentally, this was the time we get the interval. Spotting the postman, kids run and make a ring around him. They curiously enquire if any letters were there for their family. The postman passively replies 'no' to all those queries and rushes past the kids. The kids run after the postman till he crosses the southern side fence of our school. Even though the kids were not so serious about letters, they found it an opportunity to tease the frail old man.

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The Government LP School-2

Kannusaar was our teacher in the second standard. He came from the neighbouring village. Mathai saar and Basheer also came from the nearby villages. Kannusaar used to ride a bycycle. He was a easy go lucky kind of teacher. But still he never wasted any opportunity to punish erring children. His weapon of submission was pinching. Right down the arm pit he chooses a spot and start winding up the skin in between his fingers. Though it was a painful experience, many kids struggled hard to hide it. Prestige was at stake, per se!

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Mathaisaar spanks the kids. He had a trademark smile and a kaalan kuda hanging from the collar of his shirt when he walks to and from the school. Though the teachers never left any cherishable memories in our minds, Mathaisaar still walks in my memories, sporting his smile and ofcourse the kaalan kuda on the collar of the shirt . After I left the LPSchool, I never met Kannusaar or Mathaisaar. The bitter part of the otherwise sweet memories of childhood was the indifference both the Gurus and the Sishyas showed towards each other.

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Krishnan Nair was a poor old man who eked out a living by distributing the letters and money orders to the public. Emperor Sibi was a King who ruled his empire with compassion. He was no ordinary human like the postman. He was a great king and a kind hearted human being. . He was the epitome of all virtues. He was ever ready to even lay down his life to help others. What better stories than this could we be taught in standard II? The poem about Kunjiyamma,her five children, the fifth chied Kunju,his boat and the sugar bags stacked in the boat. It is hard to forget all these stories and characters.

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I wish once again a class room in front of Kannusaar were recreated. Sitting among the little rascals Jayachandran, Minikumari, janardhanan, Balachandran, Sivarajan, Mahilamani, Prathapan and shaji I want to recite the poem “ raagi parakkunna chemparunthe…”

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Nostalgia, you are like Puspaka Vimanam. How quickly you took me to those golden days of childhood…and how quickly you dropped me back to the real world of worries and uncertainities….

Saturday, January 1, 2011

Appooppanthaadi -2

10.12.2010: Woke up too late in the morning. Today I had nothing to do. Another free day here in Germany. Slowly got up and finished the morning’s customary cleaning acts on the body and then proceeded to the hotel’s launge. There is a small restaurant adjacent to the launge that serves free breakfast to its guests. In Europe, it is a usual practice to serve breakfast as complimentary to the stay in the hotels. Most of the items are baked ones like bread.Then there are a lot of meat items. Boiled eggs, fruits, corn flakes with milk, cheese, coffee, fruit juices.. the list is long. Guests are allowed to eat whatever they like. I took a bread with cheese, a sweet and then a glass of apple juice. By then it was already 1030 in the morning. Interestings, I should say one thing. In German and Swiss restaurants and Hotel rooms, they do not serve water to drink. In restaurant, we have to order something to drink. Mostly they expect us to order beer per se! In the hotel rooms, we can drink the water available in the bathroom tap. Glasses are provided in the bathroom. Whenever we feel thirsty, we may rush to the bathroom...and the water available there is really clean. I never had any problem with the tap water yet

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Since morning the internet was on, and I could chat with so many of my friends from elsewhere in the globe. In most of the german Hotels, customers are provided with unlimited wi-fi internet service in the rooms round the clock. Though wi-fi is provided in other countries too like Switzerland or France, they do not provide it free of cost. The time was passing by. By 2 in the afternoon, I left for lunch. Today I tried with the nearby Chinese restaurant. Here I could find many Chiense and Thai restaurants. People from Tialand, China Philippenes and from other eastern countries can be seen in Germany. They are working in hotels and other business establishments. In the Chinese restaurant, they serve noodles and fried rice. Though these are all made with meat, the cook in the restaurant made vegetable noodle especially for me. As a pleasant surprise, the cook was an Indian- Raman Kumar from Punjab. He used the same pan that he used for cooking those chicken and lamb based noodles and fried rice to cook my food. I did not mind it since I had no other option. In fact, we can not be so strict in these matters when we are out of our homes. Again, our 'chalega' approach helped me a lot here!

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This is the third time I visited the Chinese restaurant. This time I told him to make the noodles a little spicy. I feel, Europeans do not like spice. They like all ‘emotionless’ dishes to eat. Even in our Indian restaurants - I could locate three Indian restaurants so far in Mannheim- they make Palak Paneer with such a dampened ‘emotions’ that we can never say it is an Indian tandoori dish. When the waiter in the Indian restaurants take order from us, they specifically ask if we needed it spicy. But spice is the only thing that will be missing in it. But still the problem of food in Europe is mitigated to a great extent . I am happy to say that in all the cities I visited so far, I could find Indian restaurants. But conpeciously or rather sadly, the "chayakkada" from the famous mallu is missing everywhere.

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Today’s noodles however made my stomach upset. Raman Kumar made the special spicy vegetable noodles with a lot of spice, chilly and salt. It really tasted good and I had it stomach full.It costed be only five euros. But the aftermath of it was not so good. Even at eight in the night, I felt no hunger. I had to skip my dinner. The only thing I took in the night was a full bottle of coca cola, that I bought from the nearby department store for sixty four cents. I wanted to drink something fizzy. Where is Pepsi then? I am yet to see Pepsi in Europe.

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The night of a Friday for the locals is like a festival. The revelry continues till late in the night. Guys and gals stand in group and smoke, chat and laugh very loudly. Vehicles make unusual sounds and run unusually fast. Shopping malls and market places are filled with customers. The celebration is in full throttle. I could hear the cheers of it from my room. Even at midnight, I can hear the sound from outside.

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The traffic signals are still working. Green, Amber and Red signals take their turn at the junctions. Pedestrian signal is also at work. Motorists obey the rules even at midnight…I am new to this. These people will never change. They are destined to live with rules and regulations till the end. Since a single person like me cannot change them, I too try to obey their rules on the roads strictly. I am trying to be a German when I am in Germany…

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